A recent report by the environmental organization Earthsight has revealed that fashion giants H&M and Zara have been sourcing cotton from farms in Brazil associated with extensive deforestation, corruption, land-grabbing, and violence. The report, titled "Fashion Crimes," draws on satellite imagery, legal rulings, shipment records, and undercover investigations to uncover these concerning practices.
According to the report, the cotton sourced by H&M and Zara was produced in the fragile Cerrado savanna by two major agribusiness firms in Brazil, SLC Agricola and the Horita Group. Despite the well-documented abuses associated with these farms, the cotton was labeled as ethical by the Better Cotton certification scheme, highlighting significant flaws in oversight and certification processes.
The Cerrado, known as the most biodiverse savanna globally, has been rapidly disappearing due to increased agricultural expansion driven by Brazil's agribusiness industry. Earthsight identified over 816,000 tonnes of cotton exported between 2014 and 2023 from farms operated by SLC and Horita, both of which have a history of legal disputes, corruption allegations, and environmental fines related to the clearance of vast swathes of Cerrado wilderness.
The cotton in question was cultivated in Bahia, Brazil, and supplied to various Asian clothing manufacturers, including those supplying H&M and Zara. Brazil has become a significant cotton producer in recent years, trailing only behind the US, but this growth has come at the expense of environmental degradation and the displacement of local communities in the Cerrado region.
In response to the report, Better Cotton stated that it had conducted an independent audit to investigate the issues raised and would provide a summary of its findings. Both Inditex (Zara's parent company) and H&M expressed concern over the allegations and called for the release of the audit findings by Better Cotton.
The Brazilian Cotton Producers' Association (ABRAPA) defended the growers implicated in the report, stating that they had provided evidence countering the allegations. However, ABRAPA condemned any practices that undermine environmental conservation, violate human rights, or harm local communities.
